Well it’s been a little slow on the Blogging front, sorry. Study abroad has been a lot of study lately. Biggest of all was a 45 min presentation about representations of the myth of Achilles in art, in Spanish of course. I’ll try to catch up.
the palace
attempting artistic photography
curved walls to support the weight of the adjacent plaza
Toledo.
another attempt at artistry.
Gazing at the Guernica
The Guernica
Plaza-ing
On the climbing front I’ve been climbing a bunch at Margalef. In general I’ve been getting crushed, which can be hard to deal with but I can easily rationalize. At the moment, after going through a full six weeks of climbing outside and the going through three weeks of low-intensity, high-volume base training I have absolutely no power, but I can hang on for a while and my technique has never been better. Basically this has meant that I have been onsighting 12b like crazy, but have been getting shut down on most 12c’s and every 12d. 12b usually presents moves that are just below my power threshold, but if I push it to the threshold or a little higher then I’m off. There was one route a couple weeks ago that crushed me more than the rest, an incredible 12d on the Balcó de l’hermita in Margalef. Despite knowing that I should be logging a lot of 5.11 climbs as part of the base building period, I keep pushing myself onto harder stuff. I have never onsighted a 12d before, but for some reason I convinced myself that it was time to change that. While tying in I studied the series of small pockets that sparsely dotted the first fifteen feet. A quick knot check and belay check and I was off. Two finger pockets -just reaching the first joint on the fingers- were linked by long and precise stabs. The moves were difficult, but I did them perfectly, and with a little teeth gritting I found myself past the powerful start. A short shake out and I kept going, linking move after move of small pocket pulling. I clipped the last bolt, a few far pockets the only obstacles to my first 12d onsight, but a familiar cramping was working into my forearms. I was pumped. Fall now or fall later has become the negative phrase that has taken me to the top of my best climbs, and now it starts to creep into my head automatically when I start getting tired. Fall later, I thought, and threw for the next pocket, and the next, and the next. Hitting a large three finger pocket next to anchor told me the climb was over, my first 12d onsight, but that’s when tragedy struck. I reached to clip the anchor with my left hand, but the carabiner was stuck. After fumbling for several seconds I grabbed the anchor, my belayer thought I had clipped in took up some slack, and I was soon flying off the rock. And that was it, no 12d onsight. I hung in silence, crushed, knowing that I could have done nothing differently, but still being empty handed. It’s silly because I can easily justify onsighting the climb, but for some reason I can’t justify it for myself. Climbing is funny that way, it’s our personal standards that really matter. The climb haunted me for a while, but I think in the long run it was good for me. Instead of going home, eating a kebab and drinking beer, I ate a salad and planned my week’s training. Despite feeling crushed, the fact that I can almost onsight 12d when I’m not in best form is a good sign. Also, as much as I enjoy hitting a new grade, I climb because I like the challenge and having to fight my hardest. I had to dig deep to keep going. I’ll always remember the intensity of the last few moves, and the emotion of slowly falling away from the anchors. Cataluña has no shortage of 12d’s, so I’ll keep trying, and trying, until it happens.
"I'm looking into graduate school out here," I told my friend Jan, the owner of Rockbusters who turned his Spain roadtrip into a career, over a beer recently.
"Pshhhh, you'll be back." He said. I'm not sure whether he was so certain of my ability to get into graduate school or my complete addiction to Spanish limestone.
At the same time it is daunting to be taking steps toward a more definite future, but I suppose sooner or later every young adult faces the same challenge. Being called a “young adult” used to bug me. I think I wanted to be considered a real adult, and I must have secretly hoped that being called a grown man would help my chances of growing a real beard. Now, looking at my fuzzy stubble I think I can say young adult is probably the appropriate term. After all neither an adolescent nor a real adult would have a web browser with open tabs to “Political Science Postgraduate Programs” and “DOUBLE RAINBOW SONG!”
I'm off on a 3 day adventure to Alquezar this weekend. Somewhere new and exciting.
Chris, I have read your blog off and on and it has bee great fun. Believe it or not Drew will graduate in a two short months. I will miss Boulder. Drew has mentioned both you and Kiki often and what a wonderful part of CU you were. Hope your advenures lead you to incredible places, Andrea Gibbons (Drews mom) I have really enjoyed going on your adventues with you, safety from my computer. Be safe be well and most of all have great adventures....
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