Last weekend was the annual Freebloc Fin de Semana, where just about all the climbers from my gym go out for a weekend of climbing and a big dinner. This year we all went to Montgrony, which is easily one of the most amazing places I have ever climbed. I spent a weekend there earlier this year, and so I had definite goals for the weekend. First up on Saturday was “Anant amb crosses” a nice long (though not nearly as long as in the last post) 12d. It was a cold day, and since the warm-up climbs were busy Borja and I decided to just get on our goal and go bolt-to-bolt to figure out the moves. The route climbs vertical, technical terrain before the angle increases and the business begins. From the halfway point to the top it is a race against the clock. The final moves are the crux*, three big lunges to moderate holds that feel significantly smaller when pumped. I managed to climb the route second try, but I definitely had to fight and I was unsure to the end. In the video below I am featured on this climb for about 20 seconds starting at 4:40. Later in the day I jumped on a nice 13a "El Sur", but it turned out to be too late in the day. The sun had just set and I froze after the first few moves, lost feeling in my fingers, and fell shortly afterward when I was unable to squeeze a tufa pinch. Day one ended with a beer and a coffee (aka the classy vodka-redbull) in the bar before heading to the refuge for our big dinner.
All 30 of us crammed around the three tables and with empty stomachs scarfed down a hearty six course dinner. The food was classically spanish, meatballs, pasta in soup, communal salad, cole (a leafy green vegetable which, for spaniards, has the same childhood “ewww” factor as spinach does for americans), and pecan pie. It was delicious and we all enjoyed the meal with some nice red wine. After dinner, the party got going. Dymitri had just climbed his first 8a (13b, but it’s a big number for european grades), and, being Russian, ordered up shots of Vodka. Salva, the gym owner and trainer, first drank with Dymitri and then somehow got suckered into doing shots with anyone who had climbed something hard that day. “Encadenaste?” he would ask, (“did you send?” or “did you do it?”) and if the answer was yes then it was a shot of vodka for both of you. Since I had climbed something hard I was entitled to a shot and was quickly reminded of why I never drink vodka. Later in the night a lot of gear was given away with a game of Bingo. All in all the night was great. I felt honored to be with such a good group of people and to feel like I am now a real part of the community. The weekend gave me a chance to get to know a lot of the other climbers who I see in the gym, but who rarely climb with our group on the weekends.
On Sunday I had quite the productive day, I warmed up with a few climbs, including the absolute best 11c I have ever done. Then I got back on "El Sur" 13a from the day before and did it my second try of the day (third try total). On the same wall as "El Sur" were several great climbs being tried by other Freebloc climbers. It happened to be that as I was tying in, most of the group that had been climbing on the other side showed up at the wall. The climb starts with powerful moves up a very steep overhang followed by a short horizontal roof before easing off to a twenty degree overhang. The first crux comes early getting to the horizontal roof and the second crux comes toward the top involving catching two small sideways edges. I quickly and smoothly dispatched the roof, and rested, getting ready to tackle the real crux. At this point, the yells started and didn't stop.. "VENGA!!" "VENGA Chris!!" Carefully placing my feet, I grabbed the first small edge, re-adjusted my feet and threw for the second small edge. I caught it, but with the wrong three fingers! Instead of the big three, I landed with my pinky, ring, and middle. As I nearly peeled off the rock "AGUANTA!! AGUANTA!!" (Hold on!) cried the crowd below, and I held the swing. I climbed the incredibly tufa finish and clipped the chains. Climbing with a group of fanaticos means being excited about pushing others, and it means climbing A Muerte ("to death!") when it's your turn. 13a is so far the hardest I have climbed, and I had done only one before the weekend. At the same time I am realizing that it is not my limit by any means. I finished off the day with a 12b, a great fight and a nice onsight. I was exhausted, but very satisfied with the weekend.
Here is the video from the weekend. Remember I climb at 4:40.
Quick definition:
*Crux - the crux is the hardest move or series of moves on a climb. It is subjective, for example moves that are actually no harder than previous moves could be considered the crux if the the climber arrives at those moves extremely tired, thus making them feel much more difficult.
Here is the video from the weekend. Remember I climb at 4:40.
Quick definition:
*Crux - the crux is the hardest move or series of moves on a climb. It is subjective, for example moves that are actually no harder than previous moves could be considered the crux if the the climber arrives at those moves extremely tired, thus making them feel much more difficult.
No comments:
Post a Comment